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A taste of Tenterden

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Above: Tenterden High Street

Tenetwarabrocas or Brentingsleag, original and unwieldy names given by the Jutes to what became Tenet-ware-den and eventually Tenterden, means the pig-pasture of the men of Thanet, but local historian Alec Laurence muses that there was very little pig farming in the 20th century, despite this early history. There was little influence of the Romans, Alec tells me, because of the thick forest, which, however, permitted dwellers to make charcoal and early iron.
In Saxon times there were various manors with no real town, the manors built on the land of the Diocese of Canterbury. Some of the still existing houses date back to 833 (Heweson) and 948 (Morghew). There is evidence that King Edgar, first king of all England, was present here with the Archbishop of Canterbury, Dunstan, in 968.
In Norman times you saw the first habitation in the town, the Church of St. Mildred’s being started in 1180. The knave and chancel to the church were added 200 years later and the tower started in 1465, famously made in Bethersden marble. A mythical tale says that funds spent on the church meant the transfer of funds away from coastal works and the subsequent creation of the Goodwin Sands! Driving up from Small Hythe, or Smallhythe, you see the Church appearing high above the surrounding houses
Although the early dwellers were pig farmers, the fascinating array of beautiful 15th century buildings shows how Tenterden became rich from cloth-making, ship-building and trade at that time. As Nigel Nicolson points out, some 180 buildings, many found along the main street and around the village-type green, possess architectural or historical merit and additionally the houses have been relatively little altered, although some old buildings have Georgian facades, added years after their founding.

Cinque port
In the 15th century the town was at its richest. The Charter was formed in 1449, although previously Tenterden had been one of seven Hundreds of the Weald, responsible to the King. With its attribution as a limb (to Rye) of the Cinque Ports, a certain level of independence accrued to Tenterden.
In 1521 a Grammar school was opened at what is now Viyella’s in the High Street, where poor boys were taught Latin and Greek free of charge. This school lasted till 1812. There are nine churches in the town, including Unitarian, Baptist and Methodist, the non-conformist church dating back to 1662 when George Hawe refused to comply with the wishes of the newly restored Monarch, but where people met first in each other’s houses for a good number of decades, until the building of the Unitarian church on Ashford Road in 1760.
The Town Hall was built in 1792, some time after the Old Court Hall was burnt down by a prisoner in its jail. In the interim, dignitaries would meet in one of the three old pubs, the Woolpack, originally Woolsack, the Eight Bells, earlier the Six Bells, and the White Lion. All three still exist in the town.

The Town Hall was built in 1792, some time after the Old Court Hall was burnt down by a prisoner in its jail.

From the late 18th century a brewery existed in what is now Station Road. This was started by the brothers Cloake from Ebony, and sold on to Samuel Shepherd. The Cloake’s old house is found at the back of the Vine Inn. They instituted the Tenterden halfpenny, a token for trade for drink.
The poor had been taken care of in Tenterden since the Poor Law of 1601, as Borough Place was built for the purpose of housing them. You can still see Borough Place as peaceful residences at 93-103 High Street. No 95 still has the original 16th century chimney.
In the Victorian era a Workhouse was built, which eventually became a geriatric hospital, just recently pulled down to make way for Westview.

Annuity Society
The wealthy, meanwhile, started the Tenterden Annuity Society in 1768, which continued until 1925, when it was disbanded, there being only nine remaining members by then. Relatively little affected during the wars, Tenterden continues to thrive as a market town. There is a local history society, who, this year, will be celebrating 50 years of activity and in commemoration of this, a booklet will be published on Tenterden in the 20th century.
Now, as I visited, I noticed a couple of Bed and Breakfast establishments in some rather lovely houses at East Cross, towards the St. Michael’s end of the town. There is plenty to draw you to Tenterden in the 21st century, with its unusually wide High Street, tree-lined and with a lawn down to the shops, “the most celebrated, and justly celebrated, street in Kent”, writes Marcus Crouch in the 1960s. This may still be the case, and the visitor can find many independent shops, antiques dealers, art gallery, bookshops, as well as national retailers such as Ottakars, W.H.Smith and the ubiquitous Tesco. It is a lovely place to browse, with a pleasant relaxed atmosphere and it really is worth taking time to look at the individual buildings with their features from past centuries.

Travelling by steam
Take time also for a ride on the Kent and East Sussex Railway. This was started as the Rother Valley Railway in 1900, taking on its current name in 1903. It served Robertsbridge, Headcorn and Tenterden for some 60 years, and with its light railway guage was able to link up with the London trains. Closed in 1961, it was reopened by enthusiasts from 1974 and now thrives as possibly the best light gauge railway in the country. You will find regular Thomas the Tank Engine days, “high value commercial activity to attract children to the railway”, says Graham Baldwin. But he also points out the special and exciting Wealden Pullman trips for “dining with a difference”.
Visit also St. Mildred’s church, which has fine stained glass windows. Here you will find the grave of the former vicar of Tenterden, who was the husband of Lord Nelson’s daughter with Lady Hamilton, Horatia, who, however, is not buried here, despite having resided in the town for 30 years.
Continue down the High Street and on the corner, before you turn down to Smallhythe, you will find the William Caxton pub, commemorating the purported residence here of the great printer.
Down the road at Smallhythe you can visit Ellen Terry’s house. This atmospheric building is brought alive by the number of mementos from the actress’s past. In addition theatre performances are put on by the National Trust to be enjoyed by the public in this lovely situation. The house itself is a 16th century timbered yeoman’s house, originally the house of the Port Officer during the times when shipbuilding was an activity in the area.
A trip to the Chapel Down Winery is also recommended, where you can taste English wines and enjoy tours of the vineyard before treating yourself to some wonderful food in the bistro.
But stay more than a day, or promise to return, for other good restaurant experiences will fuel your ambling around this very attractive and atmospheric town.
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