Spotlight on Deal

Above: Deal beach

Above: Boat on Deal beach

Above: Deal's award-winning pier
Deal is a town by the sea, rather than a seaside town, its residents will be proud to tell you. Indeed, any visit to this attractive town will show that the High Street is a busy, bustling area and, if you pop into the Landmark Centre, just up the High Street from the Town Hall, you can pick up news of what is going on. In particular, get a copy of the Historic Town Trail and explore.
Mention of Deal is to be found in the Domesday Book, where it was owned by the Canons of Dover, although through its long history it variously came under Canterbury. Records of the Rector in the 18th century show that Deal was a long development divided into Upper, Middle and Lower and with some 700 houses and it had much earlier been integrated into the Cinque Ports system, by being a ‘limb’ of Sandwich.
Deal was granted a charter in 1799. With a shifting beach and the notorious Goodwin Sands not far off the coast, there was much booty to be had. In addition, Deal boasted an area known as the Downs, which formed a natural, tranquil anchorage for boats during storms. You can still see boats resting there today.
Even before the charter, a naval yard had been built in Deal, assuring employment for a range of boat builders, repairers and chandlers, much as you would expect from a coast town. The refitting yard continued to work through the 1700 and 1800s. In addition, Deal was full of pubs. One local resident even tells me that when he was a young man, nearly ever other house in the Middle Street area was a pub.
With a shifting beach and the notorious Goodwin Sands not far off the coast, there was much booty to be had
Notably, Nelson was a visitor to Deal and it is said that he came to assignations with Lady Hamilton at what is now The Royal Hotel on the seafront. Indeed, at one stage this hotel had its very own little pier, in order that clients could reach it with ease.
In 1847 the railway reached Deal, which provided a surge in trade in fish caught here and sent up to Billingsgate. In return, the town was opened up to tourists from London. Nigel Nicolson recounts in his book on Kent that Deal was never overly popular but was unique in its 17th-century architecture, something that any contemporary visitor can appreciate walking down onto the pier.
Most recently, Deal has suffered from the loss of the Kent coalfields, which provided much employment in the early 20th century, but also from the closing of the barracks for the Marines, who left the town. The Marines Music School was based here and indeed this has added personality to the town, ensuring still that there is a lively music scene. The fact that the town is on the flat commends it to the retired, who often may have had second homes here during their working lives. The Centre for the Retired is extremely lively and offers many facilities. The school rolls are falling but there are still large numbers of young people in the town, which gives the impression of bustling activity.
Pier of the year
Deal is celebrating exciting news that its pier has been named Pier of the Year 2008 by the National Piers Society. The popular local landmark beat 23 other nominated piers in the twelfth annual poll of the Society’s 600 members, and a special presentation was made at the Society’s agm at the Royal Hotel in Deal last month.
Deal’s present pier was opened by the Duke of Edinburgh in 1957, and it celebrated its golden anniversary in style in November last year with a fireworks display and a special exhibition.
Dover District Council has begun work on a range of improvements for the future of the pier, including upgraded utilities, with new lighting and surfacing, and the construction of a new-look café-bar with timber frames, edge walls made of glass and a range of environmentally-friendly features. Work is due to be completed this summer.
What to see and do
No account of Deal would be complete without mention of the Deal Festival of Music and Arts which takes place in the town each year in July. Its geographical stretch includes Sandwich, Dover, Margate, River and Walmer, where the Marines band return to perform a concert on the bandstand commemorating Marines killed in an IRA explosion.
In addition, the mining heritage is commemorated in a concert by the Grimethorpe Colliery Band. Other events include a performance by the Ukelele Orchestra of Great Britain and there are 37 concerts and fringe events to suit all tastes, from classical to jazz to world music from 5 to 19 July
Of particular note are the educational activities. Schools from Deal to Canterbury and around are invited in to participate in a number of ventures. In addition to performing with some of the listed names, students are encouraged to write reviews and film and photograph. Young bands will perform in the streets of Deal on the Saturdays of the Festival and South East Artists will also feature their Open Studios, another annual event. In the words of Chairman of the Board for the festival, Rosemary Dunn, “Deal may be a small town, but one should not think this is a small festival: it is one of the largest of its type in England.”
In addition to the Music Festival, a summer Regatta and Carnival Night continues the festivities from 26 July to 1 August, when the activities culminate in the biggest Carnival in the south east.
For your diaries, note the Maritime Folk Festival is from 19 to 21 September: contact staff at the Town Hall for more information (01304 361199). This links in with the popular Braderie, where more than 100 stalls fill the High Street, satisfying the curiosity of those who enjoy markets and searching for collectables.
Don’t miss the two great castles: Deal, the largest of the three forts which included the now defunct Sandown (tel: 01304 372762, open all year).
Walmer Castle, a short run up the coast, has been the seat for the Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports, which included for several years Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother. Here there are also beautiful grounds to visit (tel: 01304 364288).
The Time Ball Tower can still be visited at weekends and Bank Holidays, from 26 April to the end of September. For eight weeks in the summer, you can also visit on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays, 10 am to 4 pm (tel: 01304 360897).
For sports’ lovers, Deal has a lovely swimming pool and activities centre, Tides (tel: 01304 373399).
Shopping
Deal has a good mix of chain stores and independents along the High Street and adjoining streets. You can find florists, hairdressers, antique shops, gift shops, jewellers, bookstores and newsagents, pet stores and food stores, as well as good clothes shops.
A Farmer’s Market takes place each Wednesday in front of the Town Hall and there is a larger market on Saturdays in the car park on Union Road at the end of the High Street.
Eating and drinking
Deal is unusual in the south coast towns for having a large number of very good restaurants, which you will enjoy exploring. Recently reviewed in Kent Life have been 81 Beach Street (01304 368136) and The Bohemian, also on Beach Street (01304 374843).
Watch out for a new restaurant at the head of Deal Pier, due to be opened later in the summer. We are promised a gastronomic delight here too.
There are many other restaurants: pop into Deal Visitor Information Centre, or tel: 01304 369576 for details.
Where to stay
The Clarendon Hotel, 51/55 Beach Street, Deal CT14 6HV, tel: 01304 374748.
Dunkerley's Hotel and Restaurant, 19 Beach Street, Deal CT14 7AH, tel: 01304 375016, email: info@dunkerleys.co.uk
The Royal Hotel, Beach Street, Deal CT14 6JD, tel: 01304 375555.
How to get there
The M20 and M2 arrive at Dover, from where it is a short drive down the A258 to Deal
Frequent trains stop at Deal Station and from London Charing Cross it takes just two hours.
Local buses are frequent through the day but less so in the evening.
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