Reviewed - Pearson's Arms, Whitstable
Above: Pearson's Arms, Whitstable, Kent. (Kent Life Magazine)
Above: Upstairs at Pearson's Arms, Whitstable, Kent. (Kent Life Magazine)
Above: The bar at Pearson's Arms, Whitstable, Kent. (Kent Life Magazine)
Right on the seafront at Whitstable, a stone’s throw from the Horsebridge Arts Centre and just opposite the Whitstable Oyster Company, Pearson’s Arms enjoys one of the best sites in town, on the seawall, with easy parking just round the corner at Keam’s Yard.
With its scrubbed down old oak and pine and pastel colour scheme, the ambience is light and airy and the welcoming extremely cordial. Downstairs, you’ll find a bar on two levels, with comfortable seating and a great cocktail menu, while upstairs the restaurant commands stunning views out over to Sheppey.
On the clear day we were there you could see right out past the Thames Estuary to Southend. A cunning strip of mirror has been fitted to pick out the colours of the sunset and rocket them around the room, but we visited on a sunny lunchtime, enjoying the light in this bright room.
The management team, including maître d’hôte George Lister, has been in place for a year now. George is a chef from North Wales who served his apprenticeship in Australia and soon teamed up with Robert Taylor, who had also spent time working in Australia.
For George, Melbourne is “the food capital of the universe” and some of that great food experience has been brought to Whitstable. This great team brings contemporary seafood cooking to the restaurant, with some experimental, but also tried-and-tested recipes.
From an interesting menu, my companion chose a blue swimmer crab and wild rocket risotto with parmesan: “absolutely fabulous,” he declared. I selected the grilled razor clams with garlic butter, white wine and parsley, which managed to be both elegant and tasty. Other choices included the famous Whitstable rock oysters, and the home-made soup today was seasonal leek and potato.
Main courses proved equally tantalising. I chose crispy skinned sea bass fillet with orange and vanilla mash and lobster bisque, which was stunning. My partner chose the wild mushroom and taleggio ravioli with wilted greens and sage cream, which was also very good – or we could have opted for steak, guinea fowl or pork belly, satisfying the carnivores.
There were just three desserts, and we sampled them all. The tart tatin was to die for, the passion fruit pannacotta perfect and the rich double chocolate mocha tart was just that - extremely rich. The quality of the food is enhanced by the fact that most of it is sourced “as locally as is humanly possible,” according to George. Fish is from the harbour, vegetables are from St. Nicholas’ Court Farm or Mallard’s Farm, game is from Godmersham, when in season.
Wines are chosen by two masters of wine, including Clive Barlow, and you can enjoy specialist theme nights with selected wines. Certainly my Gewurztraminer would be enough to entice me back with that lovely food.
Finally, a special mention must be made of the welcome given by our waitress, Mitucha. Her charm and bright smile set off this glorious dining experience a treat.
The Pearson’s Arms
The Horsebridge, Sea Wall
Whitstable, CT5 1BT
Tel: 01227 272005
Opening times
Weekends 11am to midnight, restaurant open noon to 10pm. Open daily. Book at weekends, all through July and August from Thu.
Prices
Starters £4.75 for home-made soup to £7.95 for Whitstable rock oysters; mains £12.95 for wild mushroom and taleggio ravioli to £17.95 for seafood hot-pot; home-made desserts, £4.95 or English cheese platter £6.95.
Wines from £11.95 for white Vin de Pays d’Oc to £31.95 for Vina Alberdi, La Rioja Alta 2000.