Growing wings
Above: The Swan in West Malling
Above: Scott Goss, the new head chef at The Swan
Celebrating its eighth birthday on 1 April, The Swan at West Malling is the brainchild of business partners Peter Cornwell and Dickon Wright, who bought a run-down 15th-century coaching inn nine years ago and transformed it into the vibrant, Michelin-listed success it is today.
The Swan now trades over three floors as a lively, spacious brasserie divided between dining, two sleek bars and three private dining rooms. Its radical conversion, which continues this month with a top-to-toe interior makeover, mixes contemporary and classic as wood, granite and stainless steel meet original restored beams.
Outside, a paved and shaded terrace planted with mature olive trees is furnished with oak and zinc tables and Philippe Starck chairs. There’s space for a marquee in summer, and weddings (you can get married under the gazebo) are very popular here. Plans are also in hand to turn a staff cottage in the grounds into a deli.
The place was buzzing even early on a Saturday night when we arrived to chat to Peter, a self-confessed ‘ski bum’ who fought off stiff competition from some of the hottest caterers in the business to win the prestigious Globe Theatre contract in London last year.
Head chef Scott has formed close working relationships with regional suppliers
So how does a West Malling brasserie attract a clientele as far afield as London and Canterbury, and number local celebrities such as Kevin Stanford and Karen Millen (both in Kent Life’s Rich List) among its regulars?
Simple. Quality of food – and Peter believes he has a “secret weapon” in the shape of his award-winning chef, Scott Goss, 24, who trained under Gary Rhodes and has risen to head chef at The Swan in less than three years.
Scott, who leads a team of eight, has formed close working relationships with regional suppliers to ensure the freshest ingredients and to support Kent’s fresh food businesses.
Partners such as Alan West in West Malling, which Scott describes as “the best farmed livestock I’ve witnessed” are vital, and Scott is also working with David Catt for the supply of seasonal Kentish vegetables, with fresh mushrooms supplied by Kentdown Mushrooms in Fawkham.
Fresh from the air
Scott even joins the local pheasant shoot in season each Saturday to source the freshest birds, and at the time of our visit, had six lambs reserved that he will see through to slaughter.
Appetite suitably whetted, we headed downstairs to the softly lit dining area that seats 180 (plus another 200 in the summer when the garden is in use). Seating is either dark brown leather banquettes with big squashy cushions or curved white modern chairs, the colour scheme is neutral and there’s a single flower on every table.
From a sensibly short menu (seven starters, nine mains), we chose rich creamy parsnip soup and flavoursome steamed mussels in a leek and cream sauce to start, from a selection that included pan-fried rabbit’s livers and baked goat’s cheese with a beetroot salad.
To follow, I enjoyed succulent, moist roast cod with mushrooms and braised chicory – an intriguing combination, while my dining chum found his slow-roast belly of pork was so tender it cut with a fork.
The menu is accompanied by an innovative cocktail list and a well-chosen range of boutique wines: we had the Pinto Grigio Dan Zante Veneto.
Puddings are simple and delicious – more-ish vanilla burnt cream and lemon posset hit the spot – and the British and Irish artisan cheeseboard definitely looked worth exploring next time. This is very much a ‘next time, we’ll…’ sort of place.
The Swan
35 Swan Street
West Malling ME19 6JU
Tel: 01732 521910
Email: info@theswanwestmalling.co.uk
Opening times:
Mon to Sat, L 12pm - 2.45pm, D 6pm - 10.45pm
Sun, L 12pm - 3.45pm, D 6pm - 8.45pm
Booking essential.
Typical prices:
Pan-fried rabbit’s livers £6, slow-roast belly of pork £13, apple crumble £5